Snaefellsnes Peninsula - Iceland in Minature Legends, Landscapes, and Local Life (Part 1)

Day two, we head north along Iceland’s Ring Road toward the stunning Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Late Afternoon at Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellfoss, Grundarfjordur, Iceland

First Stop: Borgarnes

Your first stop is Borgarnes, a charming town where you can:

• Stock up on groceries for lunch

• Visit the Settlement Center for a dose of Viking history, if so inclined

Given my interest in seeing Arnarstapi, Búðakirkja, and Kirkjufell, some typical stops were avoided. Instead, we stocked up on a few groceries at Netto, where you can get fresh bakery items, cheese, meats, fun stuff like Nutella (which we ate a lot of while on the road), crackers, and fuel up. The views of Reykjavík across the bay here are breathtaking.

Heading to Snæfellsnes Peninsula

From Borgarnes, detour off Route 1 onto Route 54 and head up to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Along the way, there are some pretty good spots to catch pictures of Icelandic horses, but there are many better spots in the Northeast and Southeast as well as in Selfoss.

Búðakirkja: The Iconic Black Church

Our first stop was Búðakirkja, or the ‘black church’ at Búðir. This iconic site is surrounded by lava fields and offers endless opportunities for dramatic photography—especially if Iceland’s ever-changing weather adds some moodiness to your shots.

Budakirkja "Black Church" at Budir, Iceland

• Walk around the area a bit before setting up your shots.

• There are many angles; one I missed in hindsight was walking further into the lava fields to take a shot of the church from a distance.

• This is a very popular location; even in early April, we had a lot of visitors.

• Note there is a small hotel to the left side of the church, just before you get to the parking lot, which disrupts a few shot angles.

In the end, I did get some fantastic shots here with patience.

Farms and Horses to Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge

When you head back out from Búðakirkja, continue your journey through scenic farmland dotted with Icelandic horses—perfect for quick photo stops.

Make your way to Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a hidden gem that requires a short hike into a narrow canyon with cascading water. Be cautious here, as it can get crowded and slippery.

Raudfeldsgja Gorge

• I chose to climb in a little further, which many visitors do not, as they don’t want to get their feet wet.

• Some visitors go overboard and try to climb the small waterfall inside the slot.

• The walk from the parking lot just off the road is a short hike with a reasonable upward grade—not too steep, but steep enough.

We did not spend too much time at the gorge and instead went to get lunch and visit Arnarstapi.

Lunch and Leisure at Arnarstapi

There are a couple of selections for lunch, but we chose Stapinn, which had what we really needed: beer. Nothing spectacular but reasonably priced food.

It’s right off the main road where you can look at the front side of the Bárður Snæfellsnes Statue—the very large stone figure made half man and half troll, mythical protector of the peninsula.

• It was a sunny day, which turned out to be rare for us on the trip, so we sat a little too long and soaked up the beer and sun rays.

• When finished, we walked over to the Arnarstapi Cliff viewpoint.

Missed Opportunity: Gatklettur Arch

A big mistake we made was not researching this area better and spending more time here. We missed out on Gatklettur, which is a beautiful and scenic natural stone arch on the coast just a hike north from the main viewpoint. We went south instead.

• The site is a favorite tourist destination as well as a photo spot.

• Since it was getting late and an Easter Monday with many places still closed, we decided to head to Kirkjufell, Grundarfjörður, and our final destination, Dis Cottages, which would be home for two nights.

Arrival and Evening at Dis Cottages

We first went to Dis Cottages to drop off our travel gear. The way there is spectacular.

• The views of the fjords, although not daunting, feel prehistoric.

• The farmland, sea, and view of Kirkjufell from the backside are pretty spectacular.

• Passing Kirkjufell and scouting our parking fees and the lot first, we made a stop at Grundarfjörður to see if we could get dinner.

• Everything was closed, including the grocery store there, since we were late.

What was open was a small husband-and-wife-run hot dog stand called Maestro Street Food. It was our first chance to try Icelandic hot dogs, which we learned were the best we had in Iceland.

• There were quite a few people in line but not overly packed.

• My wife and I really liked this place and recommend it as a food stop on your trip.

Finally filled up, we went to drop our gear at Dis Cottages.

• When you reach Grundarfjörður, it’s about a 4–5 mile drive along the coast on the left side.

• You can see Kirkjufell and the mountains across the bay while you drive.

• There’s a lot of barbed wire off farmland, and if it wasn’t private property, I would have loved to trek across to capture a few shots.

Reaching Dis Cottages, we got to the door with the key under the mat.

• Very cute and independent cottages that are just the right size.

• You’ll have a lovely large bedroom with full window/door views, a small kitchen open to the bedroom and view, and a small shower in the back. That’s all—and all that you need.

• It also came with a beautiful wood balcony and deck around it.

• All of this with stunning views of the bay and Kirkjufell.

• This location was not too expensive, very private, with lovely views and rooms, and very good proximity to all that you need to see here.

• If conditions are right, this is an excellent spot for night photography or even catching the Northern Lights. We were not so fortunate this first night for Aurora.

The Crown Jewel: Kirkjufell

Now it was time to visit the crown jewel: Kirkjufell, or Church Mountain. Heading back to town and to the right toward Kirkjufell, it is a short ride, maybe under 20 minutes.

• The parking area near the waterfall section does have a small fee.

• There are several compositions you can shoot here—from under the falls, at the top of the falls from the left, over to the right, further up the hill shooting down, etc.

Take your time at Kirkjufell.

• It will be busy with people, so expect that and the need to edit out people from shots.

• It also did not help that I forgot my Neutral Density Filter (VND), so I could not get the slower, flowing shots I wanted until it became darker.

• I solved the VND problem when I got to Akureyri, where there was a camera shop.

Moonlit Evening View of Kirkjufell

For my shots that evening at Kirkjufell, I took a panorama from left to right, as well as shots from the upper falls to the left and over. I just wanted a classic shot. Snow was in the forecast that night instead of the Aurora Borealis, so I headed back to the cottages to edit my photos and planned to return in the morning to try for new shots.

I would advise spending both an evening and a morning here, as the views are different and so spectacular—you will want to spend time studying it. I wished I had spent even more time.

Local Wisdom

Snaefellsnes rewards those who wander. The weather shifts quickly, so pack for rain and wild winds. Cafés double as sanctuaries—after a gorge hike or beach walk, a bowl of soup or coffee is the best “recharge” you’ll find.

Other Key Sites (Add These to Your Itinerary)

• Gerðuberg Basalt Columns: Giant hexagonal cliff face, excellent for photography and short walks.

• Bjarnarfoss and Grundarfoss Waterfalls: Cascading falls easily reached from the main road.

Capturing The Essence

This leg of the Ring Road taught me to slow down and observe: to let basalt arches frame the ocean, to watch fishermen head out under stormy skies, to appreciate coffee and hearty soup after a rain-lashed walk along the cliffs. The Snaefellsnes Peninsula rewards patience—its legends, landscapes, and locals weave together for travelers willing to savor every hour.

For more on what makes Iceland’s Ring Road unforgettable, visit these deep-dive guides:

• Driving Iceland’s Ring Road: Why It’s the Best Way to Experience the Land of Fire and Ice

• Gale-Force Welcome: Iceland’s Wild Arrival Day Adventure

Let Snaefellsnes be both introduction and inspiration for the next stretch of Iceland’s endless horizon. We will cover the Western sites of the peninsula in the next blog.

👉 Next up: Snæfellsnes Peninsula – Iceland in Miniature Part 2 

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