East Iceland Odyssey: Fjords, Fishing Villages, and the Dramatic Vestrahorn Coastline

Blabjorg - Green Rock Coast

Setting Off from Egilsstaðir

Our slow journey along Iceland’s least-traveled coastline began in Egilsstaðir, a tranquil hub nestled amid rolling hills and tranquil lakes. There’s something liberating about setting out with no rigid schedule—letting the land dictate the rhythm. While we didn’t stop, the Reindeer Park in Fellabær is a tempting diversion just east of town, especially in the early hours, offering the rare chance to see wild reindeer grazing—unique to this remote corner.

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Winding Through Iceland’s Majestic Fjords

Leaving Egilsstaðir mid-morning, we rejoined the Ring Road, opting to turn south instead of retracing last night’s route toward Seyðisfjörður. The drive to Vestrahorn, just shy of four hours, seemed to blur the line between journey and destination. Towering fjords hem the route, their slopes plunging toward the sea and then soaring once more—creating a series of dramatic descents to narrow coastlines and equally exhilarating climbs.

We pressed on, enjoying the hypnotic sequence of cascades, isolated harbors, and the never-fading view of ocean and stone. Despite the scenery’s temptation, our first stop wasn’t until Blábjörg—or “Green Rock Coast”—near the Berufjörður fjord. Though its name hints at blue, its cliffs glowed an almost otherworldly green, streaked with turquoise veins from ancient volcanic flows. Iceland’s geology is unpredictable: under different skies, photographs shift from blue to vibrant green. The towering mountain above, sharply jagged and nearly 1,070 meters, added a sense of scale to this remarkable landscape.

Encounters with Icelandic Wildlife

Driving further south, the road grew even quieter. Small herds of reindeer sometimes appeared on the roadside—descendants of introduced populations—and Greylag Geese flocked in the fields as far as we could see. Oddly, despite their abundance, goose isn’t on local restaurant menus. Only later did I discover stricter conservation laws and hunting bans were behind their absence—a little-known side effect of global agreements protecting migratory birds.

You’re unlikely to see snakes in Iceland (they don’t exist here), and mosquitoes have only recently begun to arrive, making this region surprisingly bug-free.

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Places Where You Should Pause

Discovering the Red Chair and Skutafoss

The approach to Eystrahorn—the back side of Vestrahorn—is a highlight in itself. As the Ring Road sweeps along the coast, keep an eye out for the Red Chair perched atop rocks. I rue not stopping: legend has it, the views and photos here are unforgettable (my wife definitely reminded me more than once!). Even more regrettable, I missed that Skutafoss—a stunning cave and waterfall—was just nearby. Lesson learned: some detours are worth it.

Chasing the Perfect Shot at Eystrahorn & Vestrahorn

Photographing Eystrahorn and Vestrahorn can be challenging, especially when online guides and maps are sparse (as they were in 2022–2023). We had a time crunch but managed a few interesting shots after pulling over at the gravel road turnoff for Hvalnes Lighthouse. The pools near the coast offer mirror-like reflections, and if you follow the road beyond the lighthouse toward the shore, even more photographic treasures reveal themselves. Even better if you have a drone. This location lends itself to some spectacular shots from the coastline in. Time for a quick rest. Lunch was rustic—bread and cheese with a dash of vodka from earlier in the week—enjoyed against an awe-inspiring backdrop.

Halvnes Lighthouse with Eystrahorn in the background

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Arrival at Vestrahorn and Stokksnes

After passing through the tunnel beneath Vestrahorn, the coastal scenery exploded into view, with Icelandic horse farms and bright pastures leading toward the Viking Café and guesthouse. This is the heart of Stokksnes—a dramatic setting for both ring road travelers and creative souls. The Viking Café acts as a basecamp: its staff manage the gate for access to black sand dunes and the Viking Village film set, and they’re happy to help with logistics (they even supplied us with multiple pass cards). We swapped stories with fellow photographers—many of whom had been “stranded” during the pandemic and hardly minded at all!

Exploring the Black Sand Dunes

Paying the toll to access Stokksnes’s dunes is well worth it. Contrary to what photos suggest, these black dunes rise 6–10 feet, making hiking—and finding the right foreground for photography—a real adventure. On our visit, the sunsets weren’t as dramatic as hoped, but the interplay of mist, yellow grasses, and looming mountains still made for captivating images. One tip: scout the dunes from the coast back toward Vestrahorn to avoid stepping into your own shot. The scene warrants hours—if not days—of exploration; each visit brings fresh possibilities and light.

Dining and Rest in Höfn

With the light fading, we drove into Höfn for dinner, choosing Pakkhús by the harbor. Höfn has the atmosphere of a true fishing village—quiet, windswept, but full of local flavor. The menu spans lamb, Icelandic horse, duck, and, famously, langoustine. It’s a warm, wood-lined respite on chilly nights, with exceptional harbor views. Höfn is more than a pitstop: with so much to see within 50 kilometers, it’s a wonderful base for exploring the surrounding region over several days.

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Sunset at Vestrahorn: A Lesson in Patience

Returning for sunset, we navigated the warren of sand dunes, aiming for the perfect panorama of mountain framed by untouched grass. It’s a puzzling challenge—how to get a shot free of footprints, especially when crossing the dunes requires so much wandering! As the light faded behind clouds and wind, we learned a key lesson: always shoot when the opportunity arises, and never count on Icelandic sun. Photographers could easily spend two days or more here experimenting with different angles and conditions. The drama of the scene compels you to linger and try again.

Vestrahorn at Sunset

Preparing for Tomorrow

The day concluded with excitement for the next morning’s mirror shots, a planned visit to Skutafoss, and a long-anticipated return to Viking Village. As always, in Iceland, have a flexible plan—weather may force creative detours, but adventure is always a certainty.

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Additional Places to Sight See

Attraction	Location	URL	Why You Should Stop
Reindeer Park	Fellabær	N/A	View wild reindeer unique to East Iceland
Petra’s Stone Collection	Stöðvarfjörður	Petra’s	Quirky local stone museum, perfect for geology lovers
Djúpivogur & Eggin í Gleðivík	Djúpivogur	Eggin í Gleðivík	34 granite bird eggs—surreal art by the sea
Hengifoss & Litlanesfoss	Route 931/933	Hengifoss	Striking waterfalls, red cliffs, basalt columns, hiking
Hallormsstaðaskógur Forest	Near Egilsstaðir	Hallormsstaðaskógur	Largest forest in Iceland, birding and easy trails
Teigarhorn Nature Preserve	Near Djúpivogur	Teigarhorn	Rockhounding, coastal beauty

👉 Next up: Vestrahorn’s Wild Moods: From Rain-soaked Legends to Hidden Falls

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